Military Hans Högman
Copyright © Hans Högman 2020-07-23

Uniforms of the Swedish Army - 1700s

Introduction

The blue Carolean standard uniform introduced in 1687 was the prevailing uniform of the Swedish Army until the 1770s. There were several modifications and adjustments made to the uniform in the 1700s, but it took until 1779 before a new uniform was introduced, uniform m/1779.

1700 - 1720s

The Carolean uniform of the 1670s was the foundation of the new blue Carolean standard uniform introduced in 1687. The uniform was modified in 1706 (The Late Carolean Uniform). Even if modifications also were made later to the uniform in the 1700s it was pretty much the same uniform as the uniform used by the army during the Great Northern War (1700 – 1721). Since the Carolean uniform was first introduced in the 1600s it is accounted for in the chapter about the uniforms of the 1600s. See the Carolean standard uniform.

Infantry 1720s - 1770

In other words, the infantry continued to wear the blue standard uniform from the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721). However, some regiments used deviant colors of linings, collars, cuffs and stockings. The standard color for these details was yellow. However, Jönköping and Värmland regiments wore red color of these details and Västerbotten regiment white color. The karpus was now abolished as headgear in favor of the three-cornered hat, the tricorne. The resources were after the Great Northern depleted and it took several years before worn-out uniforms could be replaced. According to regulations, new uniforms were to be made of Swedish broadcloth. The hair pouch (Swe: hårpung) was abolished in the infantry in 1724. Chest stripes or facings was introduced on the uniforms in this period. The officers of the Life Guards were wearing facings from 1728 and from the mid-1700s, also the soldiers. The tails of the long-coat had previously been temporally tucked-up during march and riding. Now the tails become permanently fasted in the tucked-up position. The officers’ uniform was basically the same uniform as the soldiers’ uniform but made of better quality. The officers’ long-coat was blue as the soldiers’ but had also blue linings, cuffs, collars and stockings. So, the uniforms of the officers were fully blue. The Västerbotten regiment was in 1748 assigned the standard colors of their uniforms. Previously their coats were blue with white details. Now these details became yellow like the the majority of the regiments. In 1753 the red details of the Jönköping and Värmland regiments was reduced to only collars, cuffs and linings. Trousers and waistcoats now received the standard yellow color. According to the Uniform Regulation of 1756 the uniforms was to be made as follows:

Uniform m/1756

Long-coat and cloak were to be made of blue Swedish broadcloth. Collars of coat and cloak was to be made of yellow broadcloth. The lining was to be yellow smooth serge. The cloak was to be equipped with two smaller brass buckles. The cloak was, like earlier, circular and made in three different sizes. The long-coat was equipped with 19 large tin buttons, of which 10 were in front down to the waistline. The remaining buttons were on pocket flaps, on either side of the coat and one on the left shoulder to keep the bandoleer to the cartridge pouch in place. The vest (waistcoat) was provided with sleeves and made of yellow Swedish broadcloth. Also the knee-short trousers (breeches) was made of yellow broadcloth and had a square opening with a lid in front, an attached fall-front, (flies didn’t exist at the time). The headgear was the three-cornered hat, tricorne, and was equipped with a tin button and had at the time a high brim. The scarf was black and made of wool crepon. Crepon is a thin fabric made from silk or fine wool. The image to the right shows infantry uniform m/1756, Södermanland regiment. On the right-hand side is a cloak. The dummy has a pigtail. Army Museum. Footwear was shoes with a brass buckle. The stockings were white and made of wool. The hair was to be plied up in a queue (Swe: stångpiska), also known as pigtail. The 1756 regulation was foremost an establishment and clarification of the already existing conditions of the clothing. In the 1760s there was an increasing criticism of the homogeneous colors of the army uniform. The homogeneous colors made it difficult for the generals to manage the different regiments in battle since the homogeneous colors made if imposable to identify single regiments of the Swedish army. Photos of the army uniform according to the 1756 regulation:

Uniforms of the Swedish Army - 1700s

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Finally, in 1762 a new regulation stated that the colors of the different regiments’ uniforms were to be differentiated. This regulation included both the allotted regiments as well as the enlisted ones. For each regiment 6 sample uniforms were produced. These sample uniforms were to be used as a model for the manufacturing of respective regiment’s uniforms. This new army uniform was assigned the model name m/1765.

Uniform m/1765

The long-coat remained pretty much unchanged. The tails were more flared which meant that only the buttons on the upper part of the coat could be done. The buttonholes on the lower part of the coat simply became a decoration. The coat was shorter and now ended above the knees. The Södermanland, Västmanland and Uppland regiments’ coats were also equipped with yellow facing and the Västerbotten regiment white ones. The facing was sewn onto the coat. Also the vest was shortened and now sleeveless and had facings. The trousers were made of broadcloth and of the same type as earlier, i.e. breeches. The stockings were unchanged and kept up with knee straps. The officers on the other hand wore no longer stockings but black knee-high gaiters (Swe: stiblett) with 12 - 14 buttons. The earlier shoes had been broken right off in front, i.e. square toecaps. Now the toecaps got a rounder shape. However, still each shoe could be worn on either foot. The headgear, the three-cornered hat, was slightly modified. It had now a lower crown and was equipped with a button on the left-side of the brim. The hair was still piled up with a queue at the back of the head. The uniforms were also equipped with a ruff and the cuffs had ruffles. The uniforms of the regimental bands were decorated with chevrons on sleeves and pocket flaps. Colors of the Swedish infantry uniforms, m/1765:
Only one regiment, Jönköping Regiment, had a coat in a different color, light blue, while the other regiments’ color of the coats was medium blue. Yellow was the dominating color of the other details. Most regiments had traditional collars on their coats while three regiments wore coats with a low standing collar. The new m/1765 uniform was gradually introduced as the old uniforms were worn out.

Cavalry

The cavalry also continued wearing the blue standard uniform from the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721). The Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment wore a uniform with different colors compared to the other mounted regiments; green coat with yellow vest, cuffs and lining. A few other regiments wore uniforms with divergent colors of these details: Östgöta Cavalry Regiment had red vest, collar, cuffs and lining instead of yellow. Corresponding details in South Skåne Cavalry Regiment and Jämtland Regiment was blue and the Life Regiment white. In the 1720s the Life Regiment changed their white color for blue. Hussar units were introduced in the Swedish Calvary after the Russian war 1741 - 1742. Deserters from Russian hussar units became the first horsemen in the first Swedish hussar unit. The early Swedish hussar uniform was therefore influenced by the Russian hussar uniform; Dolman jackets and the high traditional high hussar cap. Hussars was a type of light cavalry. This Swedish hussar unit was disbanded as early as 1744. In 1746 the red color of the Östgöta Cavalry Regiment coat linings were changed to blue. Colors of the Swedish cavalry uniforms, mid-1700s:
Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment was the only regiment with a different color of the coat, green. Chamois is a color with a shade of yellow. Not only the infantry received a new regulation 1756 regarding uniforms but also the cavalry. The cavalry regulation was similar to the infantry’s. The cavalry long-coat and cloak had about the same cut as the infantry, but the number of buttons were less. Unlike the infantry, the cavalry regiments already used different colors of the coat linings. The coat had 12 brass buttons in front down to the waistline and one on each shoulder. The vest had sleeves and made of broadcloth in the regimental color and had a simple collar and small blue cuffs. The trousers was made of buck skin or reindeer skin. The hat was the traditional three-cornered hat, tricorne. The cavalrymen also wore a type of gloves known as gauntlets. The cavalrymen also used a black scarf plus two white scarves. They had two types of long stockings; one pair of wool in the regimental color and one pair of unbleached linen. The linen stockings were worn on top of the wool stockings as a protective garment when wearing their high boots. The cavalrymen had high boots without bootlegs (Swe: stövelkrage). They also had similar shoes as the soldiers in the infantry. The cavalry still wore at this time breastplates with shammy linings.

The Hussar Uniform of 1761

Hussar units were reintroduced in the Swedish cavalry during the Pomeranian War 1757 - 1762. The need of light cavalry units was big. The Royal Swedish Hussar Regiment was established in 1758. The regiment was divided into two new units in 1761; The Yellow or Wrangel Hussar Regiment and the Blue or Putbusk Regiment. As early as in 1766 the two hussar units were consolidated again by the name Royal Swedish Hussar Regiment, generally known as the Mörner Hussar Regiment after its regimental commander. The regiment received a new uniform in 1761 of the typical hussar look including the dolman (dolman jacket). The dolman was made of black broadcloth with yellow cuffs, tin buttons and white braids. The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It was usually worn under a pelisse, a similar coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose. The Swedish hussar coat of 1761 had a chamois color (shade of yellow) with a white fur trimming. The trousers were made of yellow buck skin. The high boots were equipped with spurs. The headgear was a tolpak; a black bearskin cap decorated with skull and crossbones made of silver plated sheet metal.

Artillery

The Artillery long-coat was blue with collar, cuffs, lining etc. in the same color.

1770s

The 1770s is the beginning of a new trend among the European armies towards simpler uniforms more adopted to battle conditions. The three-cornered hat (tricorne) is now being replaced with a new model which had the brim in-front turned up. Later, also the brim at the back was turned up and the entire hat was flattened. Thereby the hat only got two sides and the two-cornered hat was born, the bicorne. The Swedish Army was still using the tricorne at this time, uniform m/1765.

Infantry / Artillery 1770s - Uniform m/1779

A new uniform was introduced in 1779, the m/1779, introduced in the infantry and artillery. Now the uniforms of the Swedish army moved away from the type of uniform represented by the Carolean uniform. The m/1779 uniform was very different from the earlier Carolean uniforms. The coat was short with long tails and had a low collar. It was blue with piping (Swe: passpoal) along the coat’s seams and on the shoulder straps. The Life Guards, Uppland Regiment, Södermanland Regiment and Västmanland Regiment was using yellow piping and the Hälsinge Regiment white. The uniform was equipped with a so-called kollett. The kollett was a type of jacket shorter than the coat, had a standing collar but no tails. The kollett was used in summertime and during drill exercises. The image to the left shows a kollett m/1779 made of yellow broadcloth and blue collar and cuffs. This kollett was a one for soldiers of rank and file used by the Södermanland Regiment. Army museum. The trousers were yellow, tight and ended at the knees (breeches). The soldiers weren’t wearing the former wool long stockings at this time bur charivader, a garment reminding of the of long stockings and reached far up onto the thighs onto of the trousers. I’m not aware of the appropriate term in English for charivader but they are a kind of leggings. The image to the right shows a charivad m/1779 just by the Sögdermanland Regiment. Army Museum. The footwear was now an ankle-high boot with a pointed toecap instead of the former shoes. However, still each boot could be worn on either foot. These boots are also known as Hungarian boots. The tricorne was now changed for a circular hat. The Artillery used a hat with a higher crown than the infantry. The brim was turned up on the hats’ left side where a yellow plume was attached to the hat. The cloak was still of the sleeveless Carolean type Other details of the uniform were scarf, ruff, ruffles and for the hair; pigtail. Officers and NCOs The coat worn by officers and NCOs was equipped with projecting shoulder straps. The coat of the officers was supplied with different buttons depending on regiment. The Artillery buttons had an engraved grenade. The officers also wore a light blue sash around their waist. The hat was equipped with a ribbon which had a gold color on the officers’ hats. In some regiments the officers’ ribbons had a shade of silver. The NCO uniforms looked pretty much like the officers’, but the officers’ uniform was made of better fabrics. The NCO hats were decorated with braids and plumes made of feathers while the soldiers’ hats had plumes made of camel and wool yarn. The soldier’s coat facing were white while the officers’ and NCS’ were yellow. Officers and NCOs were also equipped with a surtout (Swe: syrtut) with two rows of buttons. A surtout is a long greatcoat with lapels and equipped with one or two rows of buttons worn over the uniforms used in the 1700s and 1800s. The image to the right shows a surtout from the 1780s. Army Museum. The uniform m/1779 was gradually introduced in the different regiments. The Södermanland regiment was equipped with the m/1779 between 1780 and 1782. In 1783 a transition began of changing the cloaks for greatcoats. In the 1780s the tails of the coats were shortened.
Officer (Lieutenant) wearing m/1779, infantry. NCO wearing m/1779, infantry. Soldier of rank and file wearing m/1779,  infantry.  Soldier, Södermanland Regiment, m/1779 Soldier, Södermanland Regiment, m/1779 Uniform m/1779, soldier: coat, trousers with an attached fall-front, cherivader (leggings), hat with a plume. Coat m/1779, soldier. Boot m/1779. Uniform m/1779, cherivader (leggings). Uniform m/1779, hat with a plume Army Museum. Photo Hans Högman 2003.

Cavalry 1770s

The Cavalry had during the 1770s been wearing the cavalry uniform of 1756, m/1756. They were not included in the new regulation of 1765. In 1774 it was ruled that the cavalry was to continue using uniform m/1756. This included the cloak, coat, trousers, hat etc. However, a new vest and trousers was to be manufactured.

Uniform m/1777

In 1777 there was a new regulation regarding the cavalry uniforms. The hat was to be smooth without braids and equipped with a button on the brim and a banner of a straw. In 1779 it was ruled that the cavalry was to use the same type of hats as the infantry.

Uniform m/1781

In 1781 a new regulation for the cavalry was accepted. The cavalry breeches were to be made of buckskin and to reach down below the knees, where they were fastened by a pair of straps. The dragoon trousers were made longer; they reached down to the ankles. The cavalry horsemen were wearing leather top-boots with stiff cuffs. The dragoons were wearing knee-high boots and eschavader (a leg garment) over the skin trousers. Only one regiment, the Mounted Life Regiment, kept the buff coats and breastplates. The cavalry hats were similar to the infantry hats but not identical. The cloak was kept as before. The uniforms of the Swedish Army introduced in this period was used for the first time in battle in the Swedish-Russian War 1788 - 1790. The war proved that the uniforms weren’t fulfilling standards under battle conditions. The uniform was therefore submitted to some changes after the war.

1790s

A new type of garment was introduced during the French Revolution 1789 - 1799; the long trousers. This was a garment only used by seamen and workers previously. Long trousers were soon used by the French revolution army. At this time a new type of coat was introduced, a coat with long tails and a high large collar, double lapels and two rows of buttons. The headgear was a high cylindrical felt hat. It took a while before this new fashion reached Sweden. Not until the end of the 1790s was the new coat and hat introduced here. However, the long trousers became a fashion earlier. Swedish military uniforms followed about the same timeline. The first military long trousers in Sweden was introduced in 1789 but not until the first decade of the 1800s was the entire infantry equipped with long trousers.

Infantry 1790s - uniform m/1792-1793

According to a regulation from the early 1790s a new uniform for the infantry was to be made in accordance with the uniform worn by the Svea Life Guards. The regulation especially emphasizes the length and cutting of the jacket, vest, trousers and the high gaiters. The facing of the coat was to be open, i.e. have visible button and buttonholes. The coat was made longer and the former charivader was replaced by high gaiters and the former ankle-high boots by shoes. Previously only officers wore sashes, now also soldiers of rank and file were equipped with blue and yellow sashes. The earlier high cylindrical hats were kept. the officers and NCOs were supplied with a gold or silver ribbon and a yellow plume fastened by a braid. This hat is known as the “Swedish hat” in other countries. The uniform m/1792-1793 was equipped with the then new epaulettes (Swe: epålett) on the officers’ coats. Epaulette (also spelled epaulet) is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. At this time formal rank insignias were introduced (as we see them today). The former gorgets were abolished in 1792 as a badge of rank. Instead rank insignias were introduced in Sweden in accordance with the French way of using rank insignias. The new rank insignias were worn on the shoulders, i.e. epaulettes. The epaulettes were different for different ranks. In 1795 royal crowns was added to the epaulettes as an insignia for generals and stars as insignias for colonels and other lower officers. In 1793 a second uniform was added to the ordinary uniform called “släpmundering” (Undress uniform). The ordinary uniform was referred to as the “livmundering” (Dress uniform). The “släpmundering” (Undress uniform) was a working dress (clothes) and looked like the ordinary uniform but made of gray or white wadmal. Wadmal is a coarse, dense, usually undyed wool fabric. The hat for the släpmundering was lacking the plume. In 1794 another new garment was introduced, the military dress suite to be worn by off-duty officers. The tailcoat was dark blue equipped with cuffs, collar and lining. The lining was to be in the regimental color. Also, a new hat for the infantry was being developed in 1799, m/1799. The crown was cylindrical and 18 cm (7 inches) high.
Soldier, Södermanland regiment, uniform m/1792- 1793 with hat m/1799

Artillery 1790s - uniform m/1794

The artillery uniform m/1794 had a dark-blue coat with tucked-up tails, large pocket flaps and a high double folded blue collar and blue cuffs. The trousers were dark-blue, tight and made of broadcloth. The footwear was a type of black boots but also black shoes. The hat was a black felt hat which left brim was extended and fastened to the crown and equipped with a red and white cockade and a yellow plume. At the bottom of the crown was a ribbon of brass-sheet (Swe: kardong). The artillery hat was similar to the infantry hat. There was also a black scarf and a sash of dark-blue and yellow broadcloth. The sleeveless cloak was dark-blue with two brass buckles. The artillery was reorganized in 1794. Previously the artillery had been one large regiment with many detachments. This artillery regiment was now divided into four independent artillery regiments. These new regiments as to wear different colors on their coat collars. Svea Artillery Regiment was to wear the earlier blue collar, while the Göta Artillery Regiment’s collars was yellow, Wendes Artillery Regiment white color and the Finnish Artillery Regiment red color. In 1794 a new uniform was introduced for the in 1792 newly established Mounted Artillery Brigade. There uniform consisted of a coat, vest, high gaiters, buckskin trousers, riding breeches of broadcloth and calfskin, hat with a a ribbon of brass-sheet, cloak of dark-blue broadcloth, cavalry top-boots and a scarf.

Cavalry 1790s - uniform m/1793

The cavalry uniform was submitted to some changes in 1793. The 1793 regulation stated that the cavalry was to wear the three-cornered hat, tricorne, instead of the circular hat worn by the infantry. It was more practical to wear a tricorne than the circular hat for the cavalrymen. These hats were modified tricornes which made them bicornes. So, this hat was not the former Carolean tricorne. The image to the right shows a bicorne m/1795 (seen from the front) with agraffe, pompon and tall plume. Army Museum. The Light Dragoons of the Life Guards, from 1793 the King’s Life Hussar Regiment, was equipped with a hussar uniform at this point in time. They wore a hussar felt cap with a plume, badge and kardong, dolman jacket and fur jacket (a coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose.). In 1797 the unit was reorganized into dragoons again by the name King’s Light Life Dragoon Regiment, and thereby changed to the former dragoon uniform; felt cap (as above), coat, kollett jacket, buckskin trousers. The coat was white with blue facing and white braids.

Uniform m/1795

There was a new regulation issued in 1795 concerning the cavalry uniform, but it also included the dragoon uniform. The new coat was similar to the one used by the artillery. The dragoon coat had no facing though. The cavalry trousers (breeches) were made of shammy buckskin. The dragoon trousers on the other hand reached down to the ankles. The cavalrymen used top-boots while the dragoons wore high boots. The headgear was bicornes; i.e. flattened tricornes. Two scarves were used; one black and one white. the cavalrymen were equipped with broadcloth belts while the dragoons used sashes. Breastplates and buff coats was at this time only used by the Life Regiment Brigade’s Cuirassiers. Many details in the m/1795 uniform were similar to the previous uniforms of 1777 and 1781. There were many regulations issued regarding uniforms in the 1790s and some of them were never realized. The 1795 regulation was only introduced in a few regiments.

Vargeringen - Reserve Soldiers

During the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721) a large number of reserve soldiers (replacement soldiers) raised within the units established by the Allotment System. This system was called vargering and the replacement soldiers were called vargeringssoldater in Swedish. These soldiers were stand-by soldiers on call ready to replace fallen soldiers. During the Swedish/Russian War 1788 - 1790 the vargering soldiers were raised again and these soldiers were equipped with a different uniform than the rest of the army. The uniform consisted of trousers, vest, sweater and coat.

Summary of the 1790s

The 1790s regulations can be summarized into two words; confusion and contradiction. Before there was time to introduce a new uniform, there were even newer regulations issued. So, some uniforms were never introduced, and some uniforms were only introduced in a few regiments before there were a new regulation stating otherwise. This was especially true for the cavalry.
xxxxx Swegen xxxxxxxxxxx

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Uniform m/1756, soldiers, Södermanland regiment. Long-coat m/1756, soldiers, sample coat, Södermanland regiment. Circular sleeveless cloak m/1756, soldiers, sample cloak, Södermanland regiment.  Yellow vest with sleeves and shirt m/1756, soldiers, samples, Södermanland regiment.  Shoes m/1756, soldiers, sample shoes Södermanland regiment. Each shoe could be worn on either foot. Tricorne, the three-cornered hat, m/1756, soldiers, sample hat, Södermanland regiment.  Soldiers = soldiers of rank and file.Photos Hans Högman.
Uniform m/1765 officers and the band, Södermanland Regiment with yellow facing. Uniform m/1765, soldier of rank and file, Södermanland Regiment.  Uniform m/1765, Södermanland Regiment. To the left a soldier of rank and file and to the right a grenadier NCO. He is wearing a tall grenadier cap as well as black gaiters instead of long stockings. Army Museum.
Militaria Hans Högman
Copyright © Hans Högman 2020-07-23

Uniforms of the Swedish Army -

1700s

Introduction

The blue Carolean standard uniform introduced in 1687 was the prevailing uniform of the Swedish Army until the 1770s. There were several modifications and adjustments made to the uniform in the 1700s, but it took until 1779 before a new uniform was introduced, uniform m/1779.

1700 - 1720s

The Carolean uniform of the 1670s was the foundation of the new blue Carolean standard uniform introduced in 1687. The uniform was modified in 1706 (The Late Carolean Uniform). Even if modifications also were made later to the uniform in the 1700s it was pretty much the same uniform as the uniform used by the army during the Great Northern War (1700 – 1721). Since the Carolean uniform was first introduced in the 1600s it is accounted for in the chapter about the uniforms of the 1600s. See the Carolean standard uniform.

Infantry 1720s - 1770

In other words, the infantry continued to wear the blue standard uniform from the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721). However, some regiments used deviant colors of linings, collars, cuffs and stockings. The standard color for these details was yellow. However, Jönköping and Värmland regiments wore red color of these details and Västerbotten regiment white color. The karpus was now abolished as headgear in favor of the three-cornered hat, the tricorne. The resources were after the Great Northern depleted and it took several years before worn-out uniforms could be replaced. According to regulations, new uniforms were to be made of Swedish broadcloth. The hair pouch (Swe: hårpung) was abolished in the infantry in 1724. Chest stripes or facings was introduced on the uniforms in this period. The officers of the Life Guards were wearing facings from 1728 and from the mid-1700s, also the soldiers. The tails of the long-coat had previously been temporally tucked-up during march and riding. Now the tails become permanently fasted in the tucked-up position. The officers’ uniform was basically the same uniform as the soldiers’ uniform but made of better quality. The officers’ long-coat was blue as the soldiers’ but had also blue linings, cuffs, collars and stockings. So, the uniforms of the officers were fully blue. The Västerbotten regiment was in 1748 assigned the standard colors of their uniforms. Previously their coats were blue with white details. Now these details became yellow like the the majority of the regiments. In 1753 the red details of the Jönköping and Värmland regiments was reduced to only collars, cuffs and linings. Trousers and waistcoats now received the standard yellow color. According to the Uniform Regulation of 1756 the uniforms was to be made as follows:

Uniform m/1756

Long-coat and cloak were to be made of blue Swedish broadcloth. Collars of coat and cloak was to be made of yellow broadcloth. The lining was to be yellow smooth serge. The cloak was to be equipped with two smaller brass buckles. The cloak was, like earlier, circular and made in three different sizes. The long-coat was equipped with 19 large tin buttons, of which 10 were in front down to the waistline. The remaining buttons were on pocket flaps, on either side of the coat and one on the left shoulder to keep the bandoleer to the cartridge pouch in place. The vest (waistcoat) was provided with sleeves and made of yellow Swedish broadcloth. Also the knee- short trousers (breeches) was made of yellow broadcloth and had a square opening with a lid in front, an attached fall-front, (flies didn’t exist at the time). The headgear was the three-cornered hat, tricorne, and was equipped with a tin button and had at the time a high brim. The scarf was black and made of wool crepon. Crepon is a thin fabric made from silk or fine wool. The image to the right shows infantry uniform m/1756, Södermanland regiment. On the right- hand side is a cloak. The dummy has a pigtail. Army Museum. Footwear was shoes with a brass buckle. The stockings were white and made of wool. The hair was to be plied up in a queue (Swe: stångpiska), also known as pigtail. The 1756 regulation was foremost an establishment and clarification of the already existing conditions of the clothing. In the 1760s there was an increasing criticism of the homogeneous colors of the army uniform. The homogeneous colors made it difficult for the generals to manage the different regiments in battle since the homogeneous colors made if imposable to identify single regiments of the Swedish army. Photos of the army uniform according to the 1756 regulation:

Uniforms of the Swedish

Army - 1700s

Uniform m/1756, soldiers, Södermanland regiment. Long-coat m/1756, soldiers, sample coat, Södermanland regiment. Circular sleeveless cloak m/1756, soldiers, sample cloak, Södermanland regiment.  Yellow vest with sleeves and shirt m/1756, soldiers, samples, Södermanland regiment.  Shoes m/1756, soldiers, sample shoes Södermanland regiment. Each shoe could be worn on either foot. Tricorne, the three-cornered hat, m/1756, soldiers, sample hat, Södermanland regiment.
Finally, in 1762 a new regulation stated that the colors of the different regiments’ uniforms were to be differentiated. This regulation included both the allotted regiments as well as the enlisted ones. For each regiment 6 sample uniforms were produced. These sample uniforms were to be used as a model for the manufacturing of respective regiment’s uniforms. This new army uniform was assigned the model name m/1765.

Uniform m/1765

The long-coat remained pretty much unchanged. The tails were more flared which meant that only the buttons on the upper part of the coat could be done. The buttonholes on the lower part of the coat simply became a decoration. The coat was shorter and now ended above the knees. The Södermanland, Västmanland and Uppland regiments’ coats were also equipped with yellow facing and the Västerbotten regiment white ones. The facing was sewn onto the coat. Also the vest was shortened and now sleeveless and had facings. The trousers were made of broadcloth and of the same type as earlier, i.e. breeches. The stockings were unchanged and kept up with knee straps. The officers on the other hand wore no longer stockings but black knee-high gaiters (Swe: stiblett) with 12 - 14 buttons. The earlier shoes had been broken right off in front, i.e. square toecaps. Now the toecaps got a rounder shape. However, still each shoe could be worn on either foot. The headgear, the three-cornered hat, was slightly modified. It had now a lower crown and was equipped with a button on the left-side of the brim. The hair was still piled up with a queue at the back of the head. The uniforms were also equipped with a ruff and the cuffs had ruffles. The uniforms of the regimental bands were decorated with chevrons on sleeves and pocket flaps. Colors of the Swedish infantry uniforms, m/1765:
Only one regiment, Jönköping Regiment, had a coat in a different color, light blue, while the other regiments’ color of the coats was medium blue. Yellow was the dominating color of the other details. Most regiments had traditional collars on their coats while three regiments wore coats with a low standing collar. The new m/1765 uniform was gradually introduced as the old uniforms were worn out.

Cavalry

The cavalry also continued wearing the blue standard uniform from the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721). The Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment wore a uniform with different colors compared to the other mounted regiments; green coat with yellow vest, cuffs and lining. A few other regiments wore uniforms with divergent colors of these details: Östgöta Cavalry Regiment had red vest, collar, cuffs and lining instead of yellow. Corresponding details in South Skåne Cavalry Regiment and Jämtland Regiment was blue and the Life Regiment white. In the 1720s the Life Regiment changed their white color for blue. Hussar units were introduced in the Swedish Calvary after the Russian war 1741 - 1742. Deserters from Russian hussar units became the first horsemen in the first Swedish hussar unit. The early Swedish hussar uniform was therefore influenced by the Russian hussar uniform; Dolman jackets and the high traditional high hussar cap. Hussars was a type of light cavalry. This Swedish hussar unit was disbanded as early as 1744. In 1746 the red color of the Östgöta Cavalry Regiment coat linings were changed to blue. Colors of the Swedish cavalry uniforms, mid- 1700s:
Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment was the only regiment with a different color of the coat, green. Chamois is a color with a shade of yellow. Not only the infantry received a new regulation 1756 regarding uniforms but also the cavalry. The cavalry regulation was similar to the infantry’s. The cavalry long-coat and cloak had about the same cut as the infantry, but the number of buttons were less. Unlike the infantry, the cavalry regiments already used different colors of the coat linings. The coat had 12 brass buttons in front down to the waistline and one on each shoulder. The vest had sleeves and made of broadcloth in the regimental color and had a simple collar and small blue cuffs. The trousers was made of buck skin or reindeer skin. The hat was the traditional three-cornered hat, tricorne. The cavalrymen also wore a type of gloves known as gauntlets. The cavalrymen also used a black scarf plus two white scarves. They had two types of long stockings; one pair of wool in the regimental color and one pair of unbleached linen. The linen stockings were worn on top of the wool stockings as a protective garment when wearing their high boots. The cavalrymen had high boots without bootlegs (Swe: stövelkrage). They also had similar shoes as the soldiers in the infantry. The cavalry still wore at this time breastplates with shammy linings.

The Hussar Uniform of 1761

Hussar units were reintroduced in the Swedish cavalry during the Pomeranian War 1757 - 1762. The need of light cavalry units was big. The Royal Swedish Hussar Regiment was established in 1758. The regiment was divided into two new units in 1761; The Yellow or Wrangel Hussar Regiment and the Blue or Putbusk Regiment. As early as in 1766 the two hussar units were consolidated again by the name Royal Swedish Hussar Regiment, generally known as the Mörner Hussar Regiment after its regimental commander. The regiment received a new uniform in 1761 of the typical hussar look including the dolman (dolman jacket). The dolman was made of black broadcloth with yellow cuffs, tin buttons and white braids. The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It was usually worn under a pelisse, a similar coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose. The Swedish hussar coat of 1761 had a chamois color (shade of yellow) with a white fur trimming. The trousers were made of yellow buck skin. The high boots were equipped with spurs. The headgear was a tolpak; a black bearskin cap decorated with skull and crossbones made of silver plated sheet metal.

Artillery

The Artillery long-coat was blue with collar, cuffs, lining etc. in the same color.

1770s

The 1770s is the beginning of a new trend among the European armies towards simpler uniforms more adopted to battle conditions. The three-cornered hat (tricorne) is now being replaced with a new model which had the brim in-front turned up. Later, also the brim at the back was turned up and the entire hat was flattened. Thereby the hat only got two sides and the two-cornered hat was born, the bicorne. The Swedish Army was still using the tricorne at this time, uniform m/1765.

Infantry / Artillery 1770s - Uniform m/1779

A new uniform was introduced in 1779, the m/1779, introduced in the infantry and artillery. Now the uniforms of the Swedish army moved away from the type of uniform represented by the Carolean uniform. The m/1779 uniform was very different from the earlier Carolean uniforms. The coat was short with long tails and had a low collar. It was blue with piping (Swe: passpoal) along the coat’s seams and on the shoulder straps. The Life Guards, Uppland Regiment, Södermanland Regiment and Västmanland Regiment was using yellow piping and the Hälsinge Regiment white. The uniform was equipped with a so-called kollett. The kollett was a type of jacket shorter than the coat, had a standing collar but no tails. The kollett was used in summertime and during drill exercises. The image to the left shows a kollett m/1779 made of yellow broadcloth and blue collar and cuffs. This kollett was a one for soldiers of rank and file used by the Södermanland Regiment. Army museum. The trousers were yellow, tight and ended at the knees (breeches). The soldiers weren’t wearing the former wool long stockings at this time bur charivader, a garment reminding of the of long stockings and reached far up onto the thighs onto of the trousers. I’m not aware of the appropriate term in English for charivader but they are a kind of leggings. The image to the right shows a charivad m/1779 just by the Sögdermanland Regiment. Army Museum. The footwear was now an ankle-high boot with a pointed toecap instead of the former shoes. However, still each boot could be worn on either foot. These boots are also known as Hungarian boots. The tricorne was now changed for a circular hat. The Artillery used a hat with a higher crown than the infantry. The brim was turned up on the hats’ left side where a yellow plume was attached to the hat. The cloak was still of the sleeveless Carolean type Other details of the uniform were scarf, ruff, ruffles and for the hair; pigtail. Officers and NCOs The coat worn by officers and NCOs was equipped with projecting shoulder straps. The coat of the officers was supplied with different buttons depending on regiment. The Artillery buttons had an engraved grenade. The officers also wore a light blue sash around their waist. The hat was equipped with a ribbon which had a gold color on the officers’ hats. In some regiments the officers’ ribbons had a shade of silver. The NCO uniforms looked pretty much like the officers’, but the officers’ uniform was made of better fabrics. The NCO hats were decorated with braids and plumes made of feathers while the soldiers’ hats had plumes made of camel and wool yarn. The soldier’s coat facing were white while the officers’ and NCS’ were yellow. Officers and NCOs were also equipped with a surtout (Swe: syrtut) with two rows of buttons. A surtout is a long greatcoat with lapels and equipped with one or two rows of buttons worn over the uniforms used in the 1700s and 1800s. The image to the right shows a surtout from the 1780s. Army Museum. The uniform m/1779 was gradually introduced in the different regiments. The Södermanland regiment was equipped with the m/1779 between 1780 and 1782. In 1783 a transition began of changing the cloaks for greatcoats. In the 1780s the tails of the coats were shortened.
Officer (Lieutenant) wearing m/1779, infantry. NCO wearing m/1779, infantry. Soldier of rank and file wearing m/1779,  infantry.  Soldier, Södermanland Regiment, m/1779 Soldier, Södermanland Regiment, m/1779 Uniform m/1779, soldier: coat, trousers with an attached fall-front, cherivader (leggings), hat with a plume. Coat m/1779, soldier. Uniform m/1779, cherivader (leggings). Uniform m/1779, hat with a plume Army Museum. Photo Hans Högman 2003. Boot m/1779.

Cavalry 1770s

The Cavalry had during the 1770s been wearing the cavalry uniform of 1756, m/1756. They were not included in the new regulation of 1765. In 1774 it was ruled that the cavalry was to continue using uniform m/1756. This included the cloak, coat, trousers, hat etc. However, a new vest and trousers was to be manufactured.

Uniform m/1777

In 1777 there was a new regulation regarding the cavalry uniforms. The hat was to be smooth without braids and equipped with a button on the brim and a banner of a straw. In 1779 it was ruled that the cavalry was to use the same type of hats as the infantry.

Uniform m/1781

In 1781 a new regulation for the cavalry was accepted. The cavalry breeches were to be made of buckskin and to reach down below the knees, where they were fastened by a pair of straps. The dragoon trousers were made longer; they reached down to the ankles. The cavalry horsemen were wearing leather top- boots with stiff cuffs. The dragoons were wearing knee-high boots and eschavader (a leg garment) over the skin trousers. Only one regiment, the Mounted Life Regiment, kept the buff coats and breastplates. The cavalry hats were similar to the infantry hats but not identical. The cloak was kept as before. The uniforms of the Swedish Army introduced in this period was used for the first time in battle in the Swedish-Russian War 1788 - 1790. The war proved that the uniforms weren’t fulfilling standards under battle conditions. The uniform was therefore submitted to some changes after the war.

1790s

A new type of garment was introduced during the French Revolution 1789 - 1799; the long trousers. This was a garment only used by seamen and workers previously. Long trousers were soon used by the French revolution army. At this time a new type of coat was introduced, a coat with long tails and a high large collar, double lapels and two rows of buttons. The headgear was a high cylindrical felt hat. It took a while before this new fashion reached Sweden. Not until the end of the 1790s was the new coat and hat introduced here. However, the long trousers became a fashion earlier. Swedish military uniforms followed about the same timeline. The first military long trousers in Sweden was introduced in 1789 but not until the first decade of the 1800s was the entire infantry equipped with long trousers.

Infantry 1790s - uniform m/1792-1793

According to a regulation from the early 1790s a new uniform for the infantry was to be made in accordance with the uniform worn by the Svea Life Guards. The regulation especially emphasizes the length and cutting of the jacket, vest, trousers and the high gaiters. The facing of the coat was to be open, i.e. have visible button and buttonholes. The coat was made longer and the former charivader was replaced by high gaiters and the former ankle-high boots by shoes. Previously only officers wore sashes, now also soldiers of rank and file were equipped with blue and yellow sashes. The earlier high cylindrical hats were kept. the officers and NCOs were supplied with a gold or silver ribbon and a yellow plume fastened by a braid. This hat is known as the “Swedish hat” in other countries. The uniform m/1792-1793 was equipped with the then new epaulettes (Swe: epålett) on the officers’ coats. Epaulette (also spelled epaulet) is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. At this time formal rank insignias were introduced (as we see them today). The former gorgets were abolished in 1792 as a badge of rank. Instead rank insignias were introduced in Sweden in accordance with the French way of using rank insignias. The new rank insignias were worn on the shoulders, i.e. epaulettes. The epaulettes were different for different ranks. In 1795 royal crowns was added to the epaulettes as an insignia for generals and stars as insignias for colonels and other lower officers. In 1793 a second uniform was added to the ordinary uniform called “släpmundering” (Undress uniform). The ordinary uniform was referred to as the livmundering” (Dress uniform). The “släpmundering (Undress uniform) was a working dress (clothes) and looked like the ordinary uniform but made of gray or white wadmal. Wadmal is a coarse, dense, usually undyed wool fabric. The hat for the släpmundering was lacking the plume. In 1794 another new garment was introduced, the military dress suite to be worn by off-duty officers. The tailcoat was dark blue equipped with cuffs, collar and lining. The lining was to be in the regimental color. Also, a new hat for the infantry was being developed in 1799, m/1799. The crown was cylindrical and 18 cm (7 inches) high.
Soldier, Södermanland regiment, uniform m/1792-1793 with hat m/1799

Artillery 1790s - uniform m/1794

The artillery uniform m/1794 had a dark-blue coat with tucked-up tails, large pocket flaps and a high double folded blue collar and blue cuffs. The trousers were dark-blue, tight and made of broadcloth. The footwear was a type of black boots but also black shoes. The hat was a black felt hat which left brim was extended and fastened to the crown and equipped with a red and white cockade and a yellow plume. At the bottom of the crown was a ribbon of brass-sheet (Swe: kardong). The artillery hat was similar to the infantry hat. There was also a black scarf and a sash of dark-blue and yellow broadcloth. The sleeveless cloak was dark- blue with two brass buckles. The artillery was reorganized in 1794. Previously the artillery had been one large regiment with many detachments. This artillery regiment was now divided into four independent artillery regiments. These new regiments as to wear different colors on their coat collars. Svea Artillery Regiment was to wear the earlier blue collar, while the Göta Artillery Regiment’s collars was yellow, Wendes Artillery Regiment white color and the Finnish Artillery Regiment red color. In 1794 a new uniform was introduced for the in 1792 newly established Mounted Artillery Brigade. There uniform consisted of a coat, vest, high gaiters, buckskin trousers, riding breeches of broadcloth and calfskin, hat with a a ribbon of brass-sheet, cloak of dark-blue broadcloth, cavalry top-boots and a scarf.

Cavalry 1790s - uniform m/1793

The cavalry uniform was submitted to some changes in 1793. The 1793 regulation stated that the cavalry was to wear the three-cornered hat, tricorne, instead of the circular hat worn by the infantry. It was more practical to wear a tricorne than the circular hat for the cavalrymen. These hats were modified tricornes which made them bicornes. So, this hat was not the former Carolean tricorne. The image to the right shows a bicorne m/1795 (seen from the front) with agraffe, pompon and tall plume. Army Museum. The Light Dragoons of the Life Guards, from 1793 the King’s Life Hussar Regiment, was equipped with a hussar uniform at this point in time. They wore a hussar felt cap with a plume, badge and kardong, dolman jacket and fur jacket (a coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose.). In 1797 the unit was reorganized into dragoons again by the name King’s Light Life Dragoon Regiment, and thereby changed to the former dragoon uniform; felt cap (as above), coat, kollett jacket, buckskin trousers. The coat was white with blue facing and white braids.

Uniform m/1795

There was a new regulation issued in 1795 concerning the cavalry uniform, but it also included the dragoon uniform. The new coat was similar to the one used by the artillery. The dragoon coat had no facing though. The cavalry trousers (breeches) were made of shammy buckskin. The dragoon trousers on the other hand reached down to the ankles. The cavalrymen used top-boots while the dragoons wore high boots. The headgear was bicornes; i.e. flattened tricornes. Two scarves were used; one black and one white. the cavalrymen were equipped with broadcloth belts while the dragoons used sashes. Breastplates and buff coats was at this time only used by the Life Regiment Brigade’s Cuirassiers. Many details in the m/1795 uniform were similar to the previous uniforms of 1777 and 1781. There were many regulations issued regarding uniforms in the 1790s and some of them were never realized. The 1795 regulation was only introduced in a few regiments.

Vargeringen - Reserve Soldiers

During the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721) a large number of reserve soldiers (replacement soldiers) raised within the units established by the Allotment System. This system was called vargering and the replacement soldiers were called vargeringssoldater in Swedish. These soldiers were stand-by soldiers on call ready to replace fallen soldiers. During the Swedish/Russian War 1788 - 1790 the vargering soldiers were raised again and these soldiers were equipped with a different uniform than the rest of the army. The uniform consisted of trousers, vest, sweater and coat.

Summary of the 1790s

The 1790s regulations can be summarized into two words; confusion and contradiction. Before there was time to introduce a new uniform, there were even newer regulations issued. So, some uniforms were never introduced, and some uniforms were only introduced in a few regiments before there were a new regulation stating otherwise. This was especially true for the cavalry.
Uniform m/1765 officers and the band, Södermanland Regiment with yellow facing. Uniform m/1765, soldier of rank and file, Södermanland Regiment.  Uniform m/1765, Södermanland Regiment. To the left a soldier of rank and file and to the right a grenadier NCO. He is wearing a tall grenadier cap as well as black gaiters instead of long stockings. Army Museum.